Today’s post is a throwback. Living abroad and writing about it allows you to look at everything with curiosity and excitement. When I went home after over a year in Japan, I thought, ‘Why not look at the UK with this lens? Wouldn’t life be more fun if we recognised what’s interesting about our own countries, not just when abroad?’
To this end, I thought I would harken back to an adventure I had in Summer 2015 before I touched down in Japan, on the Scottish island of Skye.
Skye is like the surface of the moon. If the surface of the moon was very, very rainy.
We drove to Skye from near Loch Lomond, having spent a lovely couple of days ambling around the countryside and rowing in the loch with my godparents who live in the area and were kind enough to have myself and three of my friends to stay. My godparents, as true rural Scots should, savoured the opportunity to mock us for our weak Essex ways before we left (“What do you mean you’re going to Skye without waterproof trousers?!”) and give us sage advice on how to survive up north (Avon So Soft is the boss for midges. What also works is encouraging your friend who is trying to stop smoking to wait until after you get back, but if you find that morally questionable, the So Soft stuff really is excellent).
The hardcore Guide to the Scottish Islands shown to us by my Godparents has shunted Skye to the appendix because, since 1995, Skye is not technically an island thanks to erection of the Skye bridge. Island or nay, Skye is around 5 hours drive from Glasgow, across some spectacularly beautiful countryside. Fortwilliam makes a good stopping point as the last frontier of Starbucks levels of ‘civilization,’ and from there you can either go to the Skye bridge or get the ferry from the small town of Mallaig. Having done both on either end of the journey, there’s not much in it time wise so make your decision based on where your final destination is on the island and how tired your long suffering driver (in our case, me) is. Be warned though – most sat navs will take you to the ferry leaving you three hours from the bridge, and you will get laughed at by the locals at the Mallaig docks for blindly following your sat nav and confusingly asking where the bridge is. Not that this happened to us, you understand, it’s just what I heard…
From the ferry, where else could we be heading but the Skyewalker hostel? My inability to resist bad puns aside, this really is a great place to stay. Clean, cheap, friendly staff and better yet it’s a STAR WARS themed hostel and there’s a giant dome you can hang out and drink in while looking up at the stars. We stayed for 3 nights.
I was too chicken to swim in the Fairy Pools but I did dip my toe in, it was freezing. The Fairy Pools were the first thing we drove to in Skye and remained one of my favourite parts of the trip.
We braved walking across to get to the stunning black sand on Talisker Bay… and promptly graffitied it because we’re from Essex and awful like that.
Not gonna lie, after our escapades we were damp and hungry, so we treated ourselves to scones and hot chocolate at The Wee Tea Room. The proprietor displays some gorgeous photography he has taken over Skye and recommended us our next destination, which was a little off the beaten track.
We walked across a beach in the howling wind to reach this very creepy and awesome ruined church. I don’t know it’s name but it was a seriously spooky experience as the weather had turned terrible. We were writing a horror story about our inevitable demise to demon sheep.
And of course it’s pretty much compulsory to visit Talisker distillery to find out how some of the best whiskey in the world is made, and drink some yourself.
On the way back from Skye we stopped in the charming town of Plockton, one of the best places to see seals in the UK. We went on a boat ride and spotted these babies lolloping around – so cute!